5 trouvailles from the grisons
Small region, great wines: the 420-hectare area falls mainly within the Bündner Herrschaft and the Rhine Valley. Smaller vineyards in Graubünden can be found in the remote Misox region bordering Ticino. Their main cultivars are Pinot noir, but the region is characteristically exciting, cultivating a variety of wines.
For the best overview of Graubünden wines, the Alter Torkel restaurant in Jenins is the place to be, serving only wines produced in the canton. The leaseholder of the Huus vum Bündner Wii, the ubiquitously well-informed and committed sommelier Olivier Friedrich, is keen to serve older and matured vintages. The selection leaves nothing to be desired, with 1,300 labels from approximately 80 producers. About twenty select wines are served by the glass, optionally paired with complementing dishes.
Most of Graubünden’s so-called wine celebrities can be sampled at the Alter Torkel, including top winemakers Martin Donatsch from Malans, Francisca and Christian Obrecht from Jenins, Irene Grünenfelder from Jenins, and Hansruedi Adank from Fläsch, among others. However, one of the most prominent names of this growing region is missing, namely Daniel and Martha Gantenbein. The duo’s top wines can be found on the menus of many gourmet restaurants.
Here is our selection of five red and white wines which represent Graubünden perfectly and provide a coherent picture of the high level and diversity of this small but mighty fine region.
Fläscher Sauvignon blanc Winery Hansruedi Adank, Fläsch – 2021
Sauvignon Blanc is produced worldwide from the Loire Valley to New Zealand. The grape variety also thrives in the Bündner Herrschaft, as production from this top vineyard masterfully shows. It is a typical, aromatic white wine, naturally fermented with wild yeasts. It is dry, incredibly fresh, taut, medium-bodied, and well-structured, and culminates in a slightly salty finish. Half the wine is matured on its full lees in wooden barrels and half in concrete eggs.
CHF 34.50 | bauraulacvins.ch
Malanser Completer Boner Winery, Malans – 2015
This Completer, an outstanding local speciality, yields long-lived growths, characterised by a concise acidity, power, and full bodies. A touch of residual sweetness is often noticeable, which is well integrated into the wine. The Boner growth is unbeatable. The next vintage of this rarity (2017) will only be on the market in a year or two. Reserve in good time!
Price on request | gianiboner.ch
Pinot noir Monolith Winery Obrecht, Fläsch – 2019
Since Francisca and Christian Obrecht started employing biodynamic methods, the wines have gained vitality and thrill. This is especially true of the estate’s powerful and elegant flagship. Monolith is a Pinot noir that perfectly combines the striking fusion of nature with
creative craftsmanship. Just another winning feature of this wine that is full of character.
CHF 61 | obrecht.ch
Merlot La Fiducia Barrique Rohner Erni Winery, Monticello (Misox) – 2019
In the remote Misox valley in Graubünden, young winemaker Madlaina Erni is attracting attention with wines bursting with character. The proximity to Ticino is evident in the varieties of grapes. Merlot plays the leading role in this noble drop, which shines with beautiful fullness and elegance, a multi-layered aroma, and a medium-heavy body and depth.
CHF 39 | rohnererni.ch
Pinot noir Selvenen Fromm Winery, Malans – 2020
There is no getting around Pinot noir in Graubünden. The climatic conditions are ideal for this diva variety of grapes. The grapes for the Pinot noir Selvenen are grown in medium-heavy, chalky slate soil. The wine develops exceptionally well over the years and impresses with its density, finesse and depth.
CHF 42 | weingut-fromm.ch
Words Peter Keller
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