Quality First

But most of all, it was a temple of human friendliness and a lighthouse of unpretentious hospitality, devoted to quality cooking and freshly made, authentic Thai dishes, served with a smile. That place always gave me comfort and energy, brightening so many of my busy working days in the past 20 years.

Lack of customers wasn’t the reason this eatery ceased operations, far from it; people queued around the block daily. It was because suppliers raised prices for key ingredients such as organic chicken and rare mountain potatoes, and it would have forced the owners to increase their prices or buy cheaper produce. Both options felt wrong, as they believed in offering quality dishes at fair prices. So they preferred to shut down rather than ­compromise on their philosophy. In a city where everything is overpriced by default, this is quite a statement. One could argue it was not the most economically viable decision, but I admire companies that stay true to their mission, identity and values, especially during difficult times. It is one of the most underrated cornerstones of strong brands.

Sometimes, I think, quality attitude is on the verge of becoming a dying art form, just another buzzword on the brand chart, overshadowed by corporate politics and hierarchy wars. Only to be dismissed by yea-sayers favouring scenarios that make them friends in boardrooms. Instead of fighting for smart approaches that are right for the brand, project its raison d’être into the future and champion both customers and stakeholders, for quality’s sake.

This story, accompanied by the sweet smell of Thai curry, is a reminder of the true meaning of quality. It is more journey than destination, realising that the good is the enemy of the great. It is not a framed diploma hanging on the wall, but Lewis Hamilton dedicating all his experience and passion to improve one millisecond every round. It is all about focus, and whole-­hearted ­consistency. And about listening to your clients, what they are not saying, as the formidable Will Guidara says in his book Unreasonable Hospitality.

Should have taken his advice seriously, when a famous wine producer tasked me to curate a dinner for affluent collectors, showing older vintages of its epic four-figure juices. The brief: the setting has to be uber-exclusive, reflecting the unicorn status of our wines. I emailed my luxurious ideas, but no answer for two months; then got a sloppy reply: we are busy, stay tuned. The company never contacted me again and executed it as a casual lunch in a mediocre restaurant. Resulting in a PR disaster that could have been avoided, if it had respected its own values and the aura of exclusivity it has been building for decades. Or was it arrogance, thinking its name shines bright enough to get away with anything?

Whether it is about fine wine or Thai food – quality attitude makes small brands win big, while large luxury brands must nurture it constantly; even in the tiniest details, that go beyond the product. When I was working at Apple, we talked about brand feel being the most important notion underlining every consumer touch point. And I believe any business must educate its employees about it. So they know what is the guiding light for their brand mission.

I am sitting at the Grand Resort Bad Ragaz, munching a scrumptious Buttermilk Fried Chicken with Pine Aioli, admiring the view of the Swiss Alps. The waitress brings me a fresh napkin; mine fell to the floor and I haven’t even noticed it. It’s the little things that I love about top service. But that story is for another time. Until then: bon voyage! 

Words Dan Roznov