Three Times Lucky

Herz cocktail bar

But let's return to the here and now and the summer of 2024. We arrive in Basel, it's a hot day, and the first thing we do is take a dip in the river, which is great fun, but something only experienced swimmers should try. Then it's time to get started. We want to sound out the city's upmarket bar culture. A local friend told me that there was nowhere better to do this than in the proverbial heart of Kleinbasel, more precisely between the Mittlerer Brücke and Exhibition Center Basel. This is where you'll find Herz, a cocktail bar that seems inconspicuous at first glance. But we realise that we have ended up in a very special place even before we have taken a seat at the round table by the window that looks out onto the pavement. We are the first guests, and barkeeper Stephi, while serving us some still water, patiently answers our questions about the cocktail menu, which changes regularly and is highly seasonal and regional.

After much deliberation, I decide in favour of the Gump ins Muul 2.0 – which is a good choice! Rarely before has a cocktail impressed me so much. Multi-layered, complex, but easy to drink, fresh and not overwhelming – I can't help but marvel at the harmonious and sophisticated way in which the many ingredients (Riesling, white vermouth, fino sherry, sage cordial, verjuice, absinthe and salt) are combined here, giving me five or six unforgettable sips. I only have one word for this drink: wow!

We are more and more at ease here and decide to order vintage sardines and triangles of toast filled with kimchi or grilled cheese. While we are drinking and nibbling happily, Managing Director Norbu Tsering joins us. He talks about his bar, about the rocky beginnings in the first year of the coronavirus and finishes off by highlighting his favourite addresses in the city for us in a copy of the handy Basel Bar Guide.

All in all, it comes as no surprise to us that the Mixology trade magazine named the Herz the Best Bar in Switzerland 2024. The only thing we really dislike is the fact that we have to leave again after just one drink. Because even if you might not realise it at first glance, we are here to work! However, we make a promise to come back as soon as we can, so instead of saying goodbye, we say see you later.

– Clarastrasse 11, 
herzbasel.com

Bar Les Trois Rois

On the way back to the hotel, we pass the stone statue of Helvetia sitting by the Mittlere Brücke, who has briefly laid her shield, cloak and spear on the ground to catch a breather. She radiates an inner calm, not unlike Thomas Huhn. The Chef de Bar, who has been working at the Grand Hotel for almost twenty years, welcomes us with a smile. Huhn is almost as legendary as many of the classic drinks that he and his team serve up every day. We know from past visits that the Bar Les Trois Rois expertly pays homage to tradition and yet always keeps up with the times – and isn't that exactly what you want from a traditional establishment like the Trois Rois? And so on this day, we give the team behind the bar the difficult task of impressing us with non-alcoholic creations that demand our full attention while still pleasantly dazing our senses.

The sun is shining and the river is sparkling, so we walk right through the elegant, dark-coloured hotel bar, furnished with capitonné sofas and paintings by artists such as Varlyn, and set up outside on the terrace, where we are welcomed by a remarkably cheerful and very knowledgeable young barman. Now, all that's left to do is wait for the moment of truth. After tasting both our drinks, we both agree that the Virgin Old Cuban is impeccable and beautifully drinkable, but the Earl Grey lacks a little of the depth that is otherwise promised by dark rum. However, the Thai Lemonade with lemongrass, lemon juice and almond syrup is exactly to our taste – a delicious, fresh sensory spectacle!

We drink from our straws and, like Helvetia on the other side of the river, meditatively gaze at the water flowing by. We briefly toy with the idea of adding a cocktail experience to our day's agenda. This is a two-hour, high-proof cocktail connoisseur's experience where liquid creations from the shaker are complemented by freshly prepared bar snacks. But we'll have to save that for our next visit to the city, as we barflies want to take a closer look at the next cocktail venues in Basel.

– Blumenrain 8, 
lestroisrois.com 

Irrsinn Bar

After a detour to Basso, where a young crowd is ringing in the weekend with long drinks, some summer rain that cleanses the spirit and the streets, and a lot of walking, we find ourselves at the Irrsinn (German for 'insanity') late at night. We take a look around. This is not a place like the Herz, which woos you with a lovely atmosphere, restrained music and floral table decorations. Instead, what you get here are metal bars, dim lighting, loud bass sounds and buzzing guitar riffs as well as tattooed guests with long beards and black shirts and a Rauch-Stübli, which is German for a smoking lounge.

Nevertheless, the service is charming and the menu inspired, creative and promising. In other words, it's not easy deciding which drink to order. I waver between the El Machete, which contains habanero tequila, mezcal, lime and agave syrup, and a Saffron Gin Fizz, which is made with saffron gin, lemon juice, sugar syrup, soda water and strands of chilli, before finally deciding on the latter. My 'epicure in crime' orders a GG, a cucumber gimlet. Both creations are based on well-known drinks and are a pleasure to look at.

After finishing our drinks, our thirst well and truly quenched, we take ourselves back outside into the warm air and make our way along the damp streets to our hotel. By this point, we have lost track of how many times we have crossed the Rhine that day. It seems that the only one here in Basel who keeps her composure is Helvetia on the bridge in the middle of the hustle and bustle of the city. A quiet connoisseur.

– Rebgasse 43
irrsinnbar.ch