Three Times Lucky in Saas-Fee
Cocktails and long drinks might not be the first reason someone would visit Saas-Fee. But the charming mountain village proves to be the ideal backdrop for turning moments of conviviality into lasting memories.
It’s late March, and while I board the train towards Saas-Fee, everybody else in Switzerland is returning their rental ski equipment, storing their moonboots and counting the days until their first summer barbecue.
I, on the other hand, cherish being given the opportunity to spend one last snowy weekend in the beautiful Swiss Alps. The high altitude and the glacier turn Saas-Fee into an alpine treasure chest with year-round skiing – and the hotel I am staying at, the Capra, turns out to be a very shiny crystal within that chest. It’s an unpretentious, family-run affair at the end of the village that puts the individual demands and comfort at the top of its list of priorities.
During check-in, snow starts to fall. I go out for a stroll, revelling in the gorgeous nature surrounding the village. Afterwards, it’s time to warm up in the Capra’s pool and spa area. After a visit to the salt therapy room, anticipation of exploring the town and diving headlong into the nightlife of Saas-Fee, starts to peak. Although ‘explore’ may be putting it rather grandly, for this car-free hamlet of little more than 1,600 inhabitants, it is mostly set up along one single lane… .
01 - Virgin Ginger
A couple of minutes later, I am standing in front of a charming wooden structure. As I step inside, I find myself in a place whose décor I would describe as makeshift. There’s a hefty touch of improvisation in the air, and downstairs there are a couple of hammock chairs attached to the ceiling, which probably attract those who come here for a Russian Dude, a ʻWhite Russian Big Lebowski Styleʼ, as it says on the menu.
I am flirting with the idea of ordering a Ginger Lady, but in the end, I settle for her little (and less fatal) sister, the Virgin Ginger, which is based on a wannabe gin by Siegfried Wonderleaf. Pete, the bartender, sizes me up as I order, but goes to work momentarily. As it is still early, there are only a few other guests around, and I opt for a wooden stool at a high table close to the bar. My only companion at this moment is a book by Peter Stamm. The renowned Swiss author will give a reading at the Capra the next day. I dive into a short story entitled ‘Mars’ as my drink arrives. It is sweet and lemony, frothy and flirty. In other words, it goes down very easily, and hence is a pleasant way to start an evening out.
While reading, I nod my head to the beat of the music. It’s nothing but classic rock guitar anthems, and I am loving it – ‘Whole Lotta Love’, ‘Baba O‘Riley’, ‘Roxanne’, you get the gist.
I down the last sip, take my book, and continue down the road. My appetite for something a bit more adventurous is growing.
Pubwise, Obere Dorfstrasse 68
instagram.com/pubwisefee
Words Oliver Schmuki
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