Asia meets the alps

Where it is located

Andermatt is located a little more than an hour’s drive from Zurich, in the Orsera Valley, at an altitude of 1,440 metres. The area is first of all known as a ski resort, with scenic and challenging descents – famous are its black ones – on the Gemsstock, a mountain facing north and there-fore always well covered with snow and also suitable for off-piste skiers. But personally I knew it because I had been there several times in the summer to visit the wonderful golf course just minutes away from the Chedi, or to take nice runs and walks among gorges, waterfalls and clear Alpine lakes. Being so close to Zurich, where I live, I had always gone there from morning to night, and this is probably one of the positive effects of the Chedi: it made the area more attractive and full of amenities, and it gave a touch of glamour to what used to be a small, traditional Swiss village.

Dramatic beauty

If Turandot were composed today, Giacomo Puccini would probably have her gazing up at the stars from her (warm) room at The Chedi Andermatt, and Prince Calaf would be singing her Nessun Dorma! wrapped in the iconic, fluffy beige bathrobe of his spa guests. Yes, because not only is the spectacular design of this hotel worthy of a beautiful Princess of China in fairy tale times, but it is also a highly original blend of traditional Alpine elegance and surprisingly minimalist Oriental grace. An unexpected mix that can be found in the lines, colours, food, and extreme attention to wellbeing typical of the East. In short, Europe meets Asia in one of the world’s most famous hotels. I visited it one weekend to see if it really lived up to expectations, and to treat myself to the luxury of snow training in a great location, as I am preparing for a very special marathon for me, in Antarctica.

Rooms

Every room here has a view, and is practically a suite. I look at the huge grey stone shower and, without glasses, I can barely see the ceiling – because it is too high! The wooden panels are decorated with elegant recessed lights, and a mini-table is placed in front of the bed, oriental-style. A fireplace and terrace with a view complete the elegant feeling.

Dinner

It’s time for dinner, and I choose, from the various culinary options, the main restaurant. I confess: I do it because I like it aesthetically. The wine and cheese tower, in the centre, cool and very tall, is a feast of tastings decorated with fruits, breads, nuts, jams, and mustards. The walls, made of glass, hold bottles of wine. All around, the four huge open kitchens offer a spectacle within a spectacle – of course I find some Italian chefs and start laughing and chatting. The large room filled with wooden chandeliers and crystal, and huge vases of orchids repeated as far as the eye can see complete the restaurant. I choose the Asian menu as does my husband, almost without reading what it is. It is a selection of Chedi classics and iconic dishes, I am told. Indeed, from the very first hors d’oeuvre, the experience is sensory. Herbs, colours, scents, different temperatures and textures, a generous amount of ingredients and portions make us get to the dessert without fully appreciating it. Here, perhaps this is the only flaw in the menu: a little too much!

Spa

The next morning at 7 am I decide to go for a swim in the Chedi’s iconic swimming pool. Nessun dorma! sang the prince in Turandot, but I can guarantee that at 7 o’clock, many people do sleep, because it’s very quiet. Two more pools offer the possibility of thermal training, which will be very useful for running in Antarctica.