The New Montreux Palace
Thousands of tiny golden leaves and dots are shining in the sun. I notice them even before I see the famous yellow stores above the balconies upon arriving at the Fairmont Le Montreux Palace.
Why? Because its iconic façade is all new and polished. Its intricate decorations have been restored one by one and now look like they were made yesterday.
‘We had to renovate this historic part of the building, so we thought to ourselves why not refurbish the rooms as well?’
This is the explanation given to me at reception when I ask why everything looks so glowing.
Upon entering my room, my expectations are therefore heightened. What will it look like? I open the vaulted door and a smile comes across my face. The room is calm, flooded with light and decorated with funky little details: two small swans to open the coffee cabinet, bamboo in the bathroom and little birds flying over the bed. The modern, four-poster bed is too tempting not to jump on it. Here I go! I land safely on the soft duvet. All around, I see a lot of plugs and international sockets, a sign that shows me the young age of the room.
The pièce de resistance is in front of me: two spectacular terraces. I see the lake, the Alps and a pond with water lilies on the immaculately manicured gardens located below my room. There are statues of Ella Fitzgerald, Ray Charles, Carlos Santana and many others. Passers-by go to read their names and stop for a moment to marvel at the famous palm trees of the Swiss Riviera.
After unpacking, I get changed and go for a short run, which provides me with an excuse to do a bit of sightseeing from the roofs of Montreux. Then I go to the lake again. I’ve read that running along the water spikes your happiness more than any other activity and I can see the hotel from almost everywhere. There’s no danger of me getting lost.
It’s now time to go back and I need a drink. I hear a vinyl crackle and then some jazz piano. It comes from the juke-box of the Lounge Bar, one of the two restaurants in the Palace. The fireplace is lit. This is like time travel! I don’t want to leave this place. I drink, relax and then look at some of the music memorabilia and photos. Freddie Mercury’s Kimono is framed as a painting. OK, OK, time to go back to my room and shower. My wellbeing and refuelling weekend includes a dinner at La Terrasse du Petit Palais, another little Belle Époque gem, with a view over the lake and the Alps. I enjoy the cool atmosphere – this is where jam sessions take place and DJs come to perform for the Montreux Jazz Festival. After I pay and head on my way, a waiter comes running after me.
‘Wait! Are you Italian?,’ he asks. I answer in the affirmative. ‘Un moment’, he says in French. He comes back with a tiny ice cream as a gift, a tradition we had in Italy in the 1970s. I guess this was his little personal touch, something I hadn’t expected, especially as I can see that nobody else has been so lucky.
The day after is dedicated in its entirety to enjoying the spa. The 2,000 square metres it spans offer plenty to discover. I start with a swim in the indoor pool and also do a bit of cold therapy by swimming to the outside area. From here, I can see the lake again. I find myself shivering before heading to the hammam, where I enjoy a sensory shower.
Breakfast is served in the winter garden, which is once more flooded with light. A delicious mix of traditional and vegetarian/vegan options is on the menu. Most of the staff are female. One employee compliments my hair and we end up laughing like we’ve known each other forever.
ʻThis is where jam sessions take place and DJs come to perform at the Montreux Jazz Festival.ʼ
One hour later there is a pilates lesson. There is no need to reserve in advance and of course I’m in. Some of the ladies are beginners like me, while others are quite advanced. I can’t help but compliment a lady in her 60s, who seems totally at ease and far more skilled than the rest of us. Since I have also booked a massage, I don’t have time to look at every single spa room. I therefore skip the sauna and infrared beds.
Finally, the highlight of the day: a full body massage. I tell my masseuse, Panayota, that I am a runner. ‘Are you also Gemini?’, she asks. I can’t believe it. Yes I am. ‘And you have pain here?’, she says, pointing at a specific area of my back. I am impressed. We laugh and we keep talking until she knows exactly what to do with me. What follows is an hour of pure bliss. I leave the treatment room fully regenerated.
When it’s time to check out, I am not sure if I have seen all the rooms of the Montreux Palace. I therefore decide to embark on a quick tour of the ballrooms. One can shoot a movie here – it’s a mini Versailles. In front of it is a big room with a grand piano. The precious parquet floor has also been restored. It boasts a beautiful hotel logo and is made in different shades of wood.
The Montreux Palace is the ultimate way to experience the area thanks to its unbeatable location and the way it mixes the traditional with modernity and the surrounding nature with impressive architecture. But what really feels good here is the warm welcome everyone receives – guests, staff and occasional visitors alike – and how you are listened to intently. Like the music of the festival, with a lot of soul and a brand new twist.
"Floating between
water and sky"
And as I still have to cram my wet bathing suit into my suitcase if I want to make the noon funicular trip back down the mountain, I’ll leave you with my last Bürgenstock insider tip. Whether you’ve arrived by public transport or car, you simply must pay the resort’s SkyBoutique a visit – if not for the lovely selection of niche perfumes, hand-picked from Parfümerie Hyazinth, then to take one last, breathtaking photo of you and the view from the freely accessible balcony, a small, glass-bottomed platform that thrills and chills in equal parts.
Steffi’s Signature Treatment Tip: 111skin
Black Diamond Non-Surgical Facial
(90 mins, CHF 390.00)
Luxury skincare brand 111skin, developed by a world-class plastic surgeon, Dr Yannis Alexandridis, is the culmination of three decades of surgical knowledge and innovative ingredients. The bespoke treatments include a number of medically inspired delivery methods… one of which I was lucky enough to experience during my Black Diamond facial.
Designed to soothe damaged, irritated skin, it was perfect for me, having just finished quite an intense course of microneedling treatments. I got to experience this beautifully calming treatment with gentle cleansing and peel, and a weirdly satisfying brush massage with an activating serum, designed to reset the skin’s natural healing properties. Finishing up with a black sheet mask for décolletage and face, the resulting glow is almost otherworldly.
Words Beatrice Lessi
Fabio Toffolon is six minutes older than his twin brother Dominik Sato, who chose to assume the last name of his Japanese wife Yoshiko.
Twin Peaks
A brilliant move for The Chedi Andermatt. A lucky coincidence for fine-dining guests. The twins Fabio Toffolon and Dominik Sato wasted no time in applying their distinguished culinary prowess to make Andermatt a top destination for foodies.
The two executive chefs cook together as a dual team at The Japanese Restaurant. Their Modern Omakase Menu is a unique, top-notch experience. Flavourful, aesthetic and holistic. Guests can also enjoy the exquisite creations of top pastry chef Yoshiko Sato – Dominik Sato’s wife.
Both chefs regard lightness and elegance as crucial. ‘A visit to us is like a taste-filled journey of discovery. It’s a complex overall experience, but stimulating and light,’ says Fabio Toffolon, describing what guests can expect. And Dominik Sato adds: ‘One dish intersects with another. From the first bite to the last, everything is intense but balanced.’
ʻElegance is an attitudeʼ
Elegance, style and serenity in a classy, Japanese ambience.
In fact, the portions are pleasingly small. Even after several superb dishes, you feel fine, and can hardly wait for the next surprising course. This is partly thanks to the perfectly timed service. The composition of the menu sequence brings the very best out of each course. For example, four appetisers, which are often served together in other top restaurants, are brought out one after the other. Toffolon explains: ‘We deliberately aim for maximum expression in every dish.’ Sato adds: ‘Our menu doesn’t start gently, then build up to fireworks at the end’. ‘Exactly,’ agrees Toffolon. ‘Every dish is a firework, but sublime and balanced.’ Their cuisine is also typified by a successful fusion of Japanese cooking techniques with the best regional and international ingredients. This is also evident in the sauces. They are incredibly intense and flavourful, but as light as a vinaigrette.
The pair describe themselves as extremely ambitious. A bit like top athletes. ‘If we were footballers, you could say we don’t cook any differently here at The Chedi than we did before,’ says Toffolon. Sato picks up the theme: ‘But we used to play in the regional league. Now we’re in the Champions League, and we’re making the most of that.’
Their cuisine has been awarded two Michelin stars and 18 Gault&Millau points. But they are already – rightly – regarded as potential contenders for a third star.
ʻAlways aim for the topʼ
The Bellevue Palace is located in the immediate vicinity of the Bundeshaus, the seat of the Swiss government.
Bern From alphorn to bao buns
Play the alphorn once in your life! You don’t have to climb mountains to fulfil this dream – all you need to do is visit what is probably the most curious museum in the city of Bern. Located just behind the Zytglogge tower, the Klingendes Museum has a collection of well over 1,000 wind instruments from various eras, including an alphorn, which visitors can try their luck on, and a 19th-century trombone that looks like a dragon’s head. Why are we telling you all this? Quite simple! Because Bern is always a little different from what you expect. And this also holds true for its culinary offerings. The best place to eat an avocado tartare served with coriander and crispy rice or bao buns with pork belly and hoisin sauce can be found behind the venerable walls of the city’s only Grand Hotel. In addition to the Asian-inspired Noumi, the Bellevue Palace also offers a restaurant serving the great classics: at Brasserie Vue, the stars of the show are the Calypso prawn cocktail, brine meunière, sea bass in a salt crust and entrecôte double.
Jack's Brasserie is a dining, living and reading room in one.
A large part of the menu offered by the brasserie is also available in the legendary Bellevue Bar, where many political pacts have been made. The Bellevue Palace is the official guest house of the Swiss Confederation.
The second icon of the Bernese hotel industry, the Schweizerhof, is located right next to the railway station. The culinary hotspot is Jack’s Brasserie, named after the long-time hotel manager Jack Gauer. Dozens of small brass nameplates adorn the upholstered benches, which reveal a range of big names from the worlds of politics, sport and show business who have already sat on them. When we visit, we take a seat in the favourite corner of Italian film diva Ornella Muti. And what do you order at Jack’s? The Wiener Schnitzel, of course! Gault & Millau once voted it the best restaurant in the country. However, chef Wolfgang Schmidt can do a great deal more, mixing classic and modern ideas with a pinch of virtuosity. He serves prime boiled beef briefly fried with creamed spinach, horseradish, potatoes and salsa verde. He also combines secret cut beef tagliata with an open raviolo with ratatouille and wild herbs. After dinner, head over to the Cigar Lounge, where you will find what could be the most impressive selection of cigars in the whole country. Another unexpected extra in the elegant house is Bern’s only hotel spa - with a pool, sauna and steam bath.
Don't miss out!
Apfelgold: In this charming shop with an adjoining café, everything revolves around apples. They are used to make single-variety juices, crumble cakes, purées and cider. An apple paradise!
apfelgold.ch
Werkhof: In the modern and no-fuss restaurant that is illuminated by plenty of natural light, only products from Switzerland are served on the plate and in the glass. Vinegar and cream are homemade here, as is the sourdough bread. To ensure that the range of products on offer is colourful and varied in winter too, a great deal of hard work goes into preserving goods in spring, summer and autumn.
restaurantwerkhof.ch
Copain: Sourdough without any compromises! Patrice Bachmann bakes Bern's most delicious bread, as well as fantastic croissants, pains au chocolat and canelés.
copain-brot.ch
Basel Welcome to the Capital of Culture!
Where, if not at the Grand Hotel Les Trois Rois, should you simply do nothing? From the historic rooms, which radiate cosiness and tranquillity, you can enjoy a unique view of the Rhine flowing by at a leisurely pace. Who needs a television? On the ground floor, which is connected to the other floors via the legendary leaning staircase (and a comfortable lift with a bench), pleasure reigns supreme. In the Brasserie (15 Gault Millau points), chef Thomas Schaefer steals the show with contemporary interpretations of classic dishes (from lobster cappuccino and poached turbot to crêpes suzette flambéed at the table). In the Cheval Blanc, Peter Knogl (see chef’s portrait on page 76) creates culinary fireworks that are worth three stars in the Michelin Guide, while in the bar, Thomas Huhn (who is also a cigar expert) celebrates high cocktail culture. Basel is a mecca for lovers of art and design, and not only during Art Basel in June.
The Fondation Beyeler in Riehen – a 20-minute tram ride from the Trois Rois – will be hosting the first major Henri Matisse retrospective in the German-speaking world for over 20 years until 26 January. This collection will feature around 80 major works by the great French painter. In Weil am Rhein, the first town on the German side of the border, the Vitra Design Museum offers a unique experience that focuses on modern design. One of the highlights is the Nike: Form Follows Motion exhibition, which is on show until 4 May 2025. The Museum Tinguely, designed by Mario Botta and located directly on the Rhine, houses the largest collection of works by Jean Tinguely, one of the most innovative and flamboyant Swiss artists of the 20th century. Switzerland’s most beautiful zoo is the place to marvel at nature in all its facets. The favourite baby animals at the Zolli are the four cheetah cubs and the little pygmy hippopotamus, who were all born in spring 2024.
Don't miss out!
Stadtbrennerei: Basel's most exclusive distillery is located in a former coach house behind Claraplatz. With a great deal of craftsmanship and expertise, first-class high-proof spirits are produced here: from absinthe, alpine herbal liqueur and gin to poppy seed schnapps and vodka. The distillery's immediate neighbour is the Herz Bar, where the bartenders use the spirits to make creative cocktails.
stadtbrennerei.ch
Ackermannshof: In Switzerland's best Italian restaurant, Flavio Fermi combines the feel-good factor of an Italian mama's kitchen with the precision of Michelin-starred gastronomy. His agnolotti dal plin with seasonally changing fillings are unbeatable. The restaurant also boasts a spectacular wine and champagne list!
ackermannshof.ch
Xocolatl: Nowhere else in Switzerland can you find a larger selection of chocolate than at Maren Gnädinger's lavishly decorated shop. Thanks to the expert advice from the manager, shopping here is like a taking a short degree on the subject of cocoa. You can take home the recipe for the legendary tarte au chocolat on a beautifully designed postcard.
xocolatl.ch
The Bellevue Palace is located in the immediate vicinity of the Bundeshaus, the seat of the Swiss government.
Bern From alphorn to bao buns
Play the alphorn once in your life! You don’t have to climb mountains to fulfil this dream – all you need to do is visit what is probably the most curious museum in the city of Bern. Located just behind the Zytglogge tower, the Klingendes Museum has a collection of well over 1,000 wind instruments from various eras, including an alphorn, which visitors can try their luck on, and a 19th-century trombone that looks like a dragon’s head. Why are we telling you all this? Quite simple! Because Bern is always a little different from what you expect. And this also holds true for its culinary offerings. The best place to eat an avocado tartare served with coriander and crispy rice or bao buns with pork belly and hoisin sauce can be found behind the venerable walls of the city’s only Grand Hotel. In addition to the Asian-inspired Noumi, the Bellevue Palace also offers a restaurant serving the great classics: at Brasserie Vue, the stars of the show are the Calypso prawn cocktail, brine meunière, sea bass in a salt crust and entrecôte double.
A large part of the menu offered by the brasserie is also available in the legendary Bellevue Bar, where many political pacts have been made. The Bellevue Palace is the official guest house of the Swiss Confederation.
The second icon of the Bernese hotel industry, the Schweizerhof, is located right next to the railway station. The culinary hotspot is Jack’s Brasserie, named after the long-time hotel manager Jack Gauer. Dozens of small brass nameplates adorn the upholstered benches, which reveal a range of big names from the worlds of politics, sport and show business who have already sat on them. When we visit, we take a seat in the favourite corner of Italian film diva Ornella Muti. And what do you order at Jack’s? The Wiener Schnitzel, of course! Gault & Millau once voted it the best restaurant in the country. However, chef Wolfgang Schmidt can do a great deal more, mixing classic and modern ideas with a pinch of virtuosity. He serves prime boiled beef briefly fried with creamed spinach, horseradish, potatoes and salsa verde. He also combines secret cut beef tagliata with an open raviolo with ratatouille and wild herbs. After dinner, head over to the Cigar Lounge, where you will find what could be the most impressive selection of cigars in the whole country. Another unexpected extra in the elegant house is Bern’s only hotel spa - with a pool, sauna and steam bath.
Words Caudio Del Principe
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