A compelling niche

When learning about orange and natural wines, you might wonder what exactly it is that makes them different from conventional wines.

Orange wine is essentially white wine produced using methods typically associated with red wines, influencing both its colour and aromatic profile and setting it apart from conventional white and red wines. To create orange wine, white wine undergoes a period of skin fermentation during which the juice remains in contact with the grape skins. What this does is extract colour pigments from the skins of white grapes, resulting in hues ranging from pale amber to deep orange. Simultaneously, aromatic compounds and tannins are released, giving the wine greater structure and clarity.

Natural wines, in comparison, are not a legally defined category. In general terms, natural wine refers to wines made from organically or biodynamically grown grapes, produced with minimal intervention and without synthetic additives. Traditional methods, such as fermentation in amphorae, are sometimes used. And while some orange wines would also be considered natural wines, that is not necessarily the case for all of them. Orange wines are defined by a method of production rather than a philosophy, like natural wines.

In natural wine creation, producers typically avoid modern cellar techniques wherever possible. Sulphur is used sparingly, if at all. Wines are neither filtered nor fined, and enzymes are avoided. Fermentation usually occurs spontaneously, using natural yeasts.

In terms of taste, there are certainly differences from that of conventional wines. For example, orange wines tend to have more intensity than white wines. Depending on the grape variety, aromas may range from ripe stone fruit and honey to herbal and savoury notes, such as sage, malt, or sourdough. This style appeals to curious and open-minded drinkers. Thanks to their structure and depth, orange wines also pair well with flavourful dishes, including those with spices, such as curries.

In principle, any white grape variety can be used in creating orange wines. Common choices include Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Muscat, and Ribolla Gialla – the latter particularly associated with the Friuli region of Italy, where amphora ageing is still practised.

The roots of orange wine are often traced back to Georgia, where wine has been produced for centuries in clay amphorae known as qvevri and buried underground. The wine is largely left to develop naturally. Today’s renewed interest in orange and natural wines can be seen as a counterpoint to highly standardised, technologically produced wines, which are sometimes criticised for lacking individuality.

A French winemaker and chemist from the early to mid-1900s, Jules Chauvet is widely considered the pioneer of natural wines. Working in the Beaujolais, he championed a return to traditional methods and demonstrated the impact of natural yeasts on flavour, largely avoiding sulphur, which required meticulous hygiene in the cellar. Others followed, including Jean-Paul Thévénet in Beaujolais and Pierre Overnoy in the Jura.

Today, the natural wine movement has changed our approach to wine in that it has shifted focus towards soil health, sustainability, and long-term vineyard vitality. In the cellar, intervention is reduced with the aim of producing wines that express their origin and character more clearly.

For those interested in learning about natural and orange wines, an open mind is essential because they often differ significantly from conventional styles in both aroma and taste. As quality can vary, it is also advisable to seek out producers with an established reputation in the field.