Natural and orange wines worth discovering

While there is no precise definition for what makes a natural wine natural, there are certain common practices. For example, vineyards are cultivated organically or biodynamically. In the cellar, the wines are produced without additives, sulphur is used as little as possible or not at all, and fermentation occurs spontaneously using wild yeast. In contrast, it is easier to define orange wines, as they are simply white wines produced like red wines, undergoing shorter or longer skin contact or ‘maceration time’.

These new styles stand in contrast to conventional winemaking. For Stefanie Renner of the Austrian winery Rennersistas, natural wine represents a more honest and original approach of wine making. In her view, too many wines today are shaped by technology and intervention. Running Rennersistas with her brother Georg, they focus on individual, character-driven wines rather than a standardised production.

Natural and orange wines can differ significantly in aroma and flavour to classic white and red wines and may take some getting used to. Nevertheless, they have secured a place on the wine lists of leading restaurants and hotels, and offer an alternative perspective, albeit within a niche segment. Whether the current interest is just a fad or represents a lasting shift remains open. Recent figures suggest a slowdown, particularly in Scandinavia, long considered a strong market. Austrian producers, many of whom specialise in low-intervention wines, have also reported notable declines in exports.

Switzerland, too, has its proponents. Markus Ruch in Schaffhausen follows a distinctly natural approach, working close to nature in the vineyard and intervening as little as possible in the cellar. His wines are consistently precise and expressive, as demonstrated by his amphora-fermented orange wine.

Here, we present four more examples illustrating the diversity and potential of these categories.

Juicy
Zweigelt 2022, Rennersistas, Burgenland, Austria

This innovative winery from Burgenland produces natural wines with a lot of character, far removed from the mainstream. This wine, made from the local Zweigelt grape, is a bright, fruity red that appeals equally to the nose and palate. It is aged in large wooden barrels, and the ageing process is imperceptible. Instead, the fruit and juiciness dominate – a pleasant introduction to the world of natural wines.

CHF 22; smithandsmith.ch