The selection of genevan wines

Geneva boasts a wine-growing area measuring 1,400 hectares, with 56% of this land dedicated to the growing of red varieties. Gamay, Pinot noir and Gamaret are the most popular. Thanks to a hunger for innovation and a large measure of dynamism, the winemakers in Geneva diversified the varieties they grow a long time ago. It therefore comes as no surprise that speciality grapes such as Malbec, Syrah and the new Divico variety can be found in the vineyards on the French border.     The same also applies for white grapes and wines. Besides the ubiquitous Chasselas – which is one of the first wines that springs to mind when you think of Swiss wine – Genevan wine producers also grow Sauvignon blanc, Chenin blanc, Aligoté, Viognier and many other varieties. The centre of Geneva’s wine-growing sector can be found in Satigny, the largest wine-growing municipality in French-speaking Switzerland.

Genevan wine is considered to be worthy of discovery and as one of Switzerland’s best-kept secrets. This is mainly down to the fact that the locals enjoy most of the wine produced in the region themselves. As a result, the wines are unfortunately not afforded a great deal of prestige outside their home region. The benefit of this is that the prices of the wines remain moderate – except for a couple of outliers.

One of the star vintners in Geneva is Jean-Pierre Pellegrin. The winemaker renovated the 600-year-old Domaine Grand’Cour in Satigny as well as its cellar himself.

He also totally transformed the vineyard’s business strategy. His father had remained true to the tradition of supplying the cooperative with the grapes he grew, but Pellegrin wanted to move away from doing this. Today, he offers a wide range of first-class wines. On a plot of land measuring 25 hectares, the producer grows no fewer than 25 grape varieties. This is probably a record-breaking feat.

Jean-Michel Novelle is one of the avantgardists of the wine-growing region. At his Le Grand Clos estate in Satigny, there is a huge emphasis on biodiversity and all of his work is done by hand. On just seven hectares, some 38 wines are produced from 17 varieties of grape. His trademark is unusual cuvées and wines, such as a novel combination of the two white varieties Petit Marseng and Petite Arvine

In addition to the two flagship operations, there are many more wine producers making their mark and creating excellent wines, for example the Domaine du Paradis, the La Devinière estate and the Domaine Les Hutins, which is a member of the Mémoire des Vins Suisses with its Sauvignon Blanc. The winemakers association comprises more than 60 first-class estates from all six growing regions within Switzerland. The aim of the association is to promote the maturity and ageing potential of Swiss wines. A large proportion of Swiss wines are still being drunk too soon. The largest wine-producing operation in Geneva is the Cave de Genève. Some 30 vintners supply their grapes to the cooperative.

To demonstrate the diverse selection of wines produced in the French-speaking canton, we have chosen six stylistically different wines from six different grape varieties. It is almost a selection you could call ‘Geneva's Best’.

Words Peter Keller