TATSOI TWIST
Paolo Rota holds one of the most unusual roles in European fine dining. For just a few months each year, he runs the two-Michelin-starred Da Vittorio restaurant in St. Moritz. The rest of the time, he devotes himself to what may be the world’s most famous pasta dish – Paccheri alla Vittorio – and his enduring passion for it.
Tastes good and does good – especially in winter, with its rich, vibrant colours.
When my favourite organic farmer from the region surprises me with a new vegetable, my heart always leaps. The same happened with the until now unknown-to-me leafy green with the crisp name tatsoi. This mustard green (Brassica rapa narinosa) is related to pak choi, Chinese cabbage and broccoli, and is now also being cultivated in Switzerland.
Through another branch of the family tree, tatsoi is connected to the beloved Italian green cime di rapa (Brassica rapa sylvestris). Traditionally prepared in two classic ways: in Apulia, paired with pasta – especially orecchiette – and topped with pecorino or toasted breadcrumbs (mollica fritta); or in Campania, as friarielli alongside spicy salsiccia. (The quickest way to win over a Neapolitan, in fact, is to declare yourself a fan of friarielli!) Tatsoi’s flavour is similar: somewhere between cabbage and spinach, with mustardy, slightly bitter notes – simply wonderful.
Its dark green, rounded, glossy leaves grow close to the ground in a compact rosette. Originally from East Asia, above all from Japan and China, tatsoi is rich in vitamins C, A, K as well as calcium and iron. It can be enjoyed raw in salads or as a vibrant garnish on raw or cooked dishes. Lightly blanched, sautéed, or steamed, it lends itself beautifully to soups, stir fries or curries. I also like using it as a substitute for leafy greens like chard or spinach in malfatti or torta salata – savoury pies perfect for creatively packing in vegetables, herbs, or salad greens.
My favourite way to enjoy tatsoi is in the simple Japanese style, as a stand-alone dish: sautéed in sesame oil with garlic, chili, anchovies and sprinkled with yuzu sesame – oishii indeed!
Words & image Claudio Del Principe
Related Stories
Behind every plate at La Réserve Eden au Lac Zürich lies a story: tomato fields at dawn, olive groves in the heat of summer, pasta machines from the 1970s and, above all, people who work with devotion. Together with chef Marco Ortolani, we visit two producers without whom his cuisine would not be the same.
Discover more
A good wine deserves the right glass. When choosing glassware, it pays to rely on established producers – those with a legacy of expertise and innovation. Whether you opt for machine-made or handcrafted models depends on your budget and how and where the glass will be used.
Discover more
Zurich may be known for its precision and alpine elegance, but it’s also emerged as a rising star on the global culinary map. The city’s dining scene blends haute cuisine with creative fusion – where Mediterranean classics meet Nikkei flair and historic guild houses echo with bold, modern flavours.
Discover more
Paolo Rota holds one of the most unusual roles in European fine dining. For just a few months each year, he runs the two-Michelin-starred Da Vittorio restaurant in St. Moritz. The rest of the time, he devotes himself to what may be the world’s most famous pasta dish – Paccheri alla Vittorio – and his enduring passion for it.
Discover more
If you want to discover the culinary highlights of the Canton of Bern, begin your journey at Radius by Stefan Beer, the fine-dining restaurant of the Victoria-Jungfrau Grand Hotel & Spa in Interlaken. Chef Stefan Beer and his team serve a menu that feels like a gourmet tour of the region.
Discover more
In summer 2025, top chef Stefan Lünse took over the culinary reins as Executive Chef at the Grand Hotel Zermatterhof– and promptly confirmed the Michelin star. His gourmet menu launches like spectacular fireworks with a bold statement: ‘My team and I are eager to go full throttle.’
Discover more
Renowned for its exceptional marbling, melt-in-the-mouth texture and unmatched flavour, Wagyu beef has become a symbol of gourmet indulgence. But what truly sets it apart? We spoke with Massimo Trazza, Head of Meat Purchasing at Bianchi, to understand what it takes to raise one of the world’s most coveted cattle. ‘Wagyu is craftsmanship,’ says Trazza. ‘Every detail, from feeding to care, influences the quality. You’re tasting years of precision in every bite.’
Discover more