TATSOI TWIST
Paolo Rota holds one of the most unusual roles in European fine dining. For just a few months each year, he runs the two-Michelin-starred Da Vittorio restaurant in St. Moritz. The rest of the time, he devotes himself to what may be the world’s most famous pasta dish – Paccheri alla Vittorio – and his enduring passion for it.
Tastes good and does good – especially in winter, with its rich, vibrant colours.
When my favourite organic farmer from the region surprises me with a new vegetable, my heart always leaps. The same happened with the until now unknown-to-me leafy green with the crisp name tatsoi. This mustard green (Brassica rapa narinosa) is related to pak choi, Chinese cabbage and broccoli, and is now also being cultivated in Switzerland.
Through another branch of the family tree, tatsoi is connected to the beloved Italian green cime di rapa (Brassica rapa sylvestris). Traditionally prepared in two classic ways: in Apulia, paired with pasta – especially orecchiette – and topped with pecorino or toasted breadcrumbs (mollica fritta); or in Campania, as friarielli alongside spicy salsiccia. (The quickest way to win over a Neapolitan, in fact, is to declare yourself a fan of friarielli!) Tatsoi’s flavour is similar: somewhere between cabbage and spinach, with mustardy, slightly bitter notes – simply wonderful.
Its dark green, rounded, glossy leaves grow close to the ground in a compact rosette. Originally from East Asia, above all from Japan and China, tatsoi is rich in vitamins C, A, K as well as calcium and iron. It can be enjoyed raw in salads or as a vibrant garnish on raw or cooked dishes. Lightly blanched, sautéed, or steamed, it lends itself beautifully to soups, stir fries or curries. I also like using it as a substitute for leafy greens like chard or spinach in malfatti or torta salata – savoury pies perfect for creatively packing in vegetables, herbs, or salad greens.
My favourite way to enjoy tatsoi is in the simple Japanese style, as a stand-alone dish: sautéed in sesame oil with garlic, chili, anchovies and sprinkled with yuzu sesame – oishii indeed!
Words & image Claudio Del Principe
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Paolo Rota holds one of the most unusual roles in European fine dining. For just a few months each year, he runs the two-Michelin-starred Da Vittorio restaurant in St. Moritz. The rest of the time, he devotes himself to what may be the world’s most famous pasta dish – Paccheri alla Vittorio – and his enduring passion for it.
Discover more