Double the Delight
Paolo Rota holds one of the most unusual roles in European fine dining. For just a few months each year, he runs the two-Michelin-starred Da Vittorio restaurant in St. Moritz. The rest of the time, he devotes himself to what may be the world’s most famous pasta dish – Paccheri alla Vittorio – and his enduring passion for it.
‘The distance isn’t all that great,’ says Paolo Rota. From the Engadin to Brusaporto – it’s just a quick trip. As head chef of the extraordinary Da Vittorio at the Carlton Hotel in St. Moritz, Rota can easily retreat south for a break. Nothing against snowy mountain views, of course, but Lombardy has its charms too.
For Rota, ‘home’ means two things: family and the three-Michelin-starred Da Vittorio near Bergamo. For him, there is no separation – Rota is not only resident chef of the Swiss outpost, he’s also the brother-in-law of Enrico (Chicco) and Roberto (Bobo) Cerea, the renowned culinary duo behind Da Vittorio in Italy. Their idea to launch a seasonal Swiss version of the restaurant has proven a masterstroke: since opening at the Carlton in 2012, the restaurant earned its first star in just two years and a second in 2020.
To truly understand the story, a visit to Brusaporto – just outside Bergamo – is essential. The original Da Vittorio isn’t a small fine-dining gem, but a magnificent empire of gastronomic culture: a spacious two-room restaurant, an open kitchen, luxurious suites and a chic new bistro (DaV by Da Vittorio) by the pool. Guests are welcomed with their iconic panettone and Paolo Rota stops for a moment to chat.
Below: Tableside paccheri is a signature dish at the original location in Brusaporto.
The World’s Most Famous Pasta? And what about that pasta dish – Paccheri alla Vittorio, finished tableside with a wonderfully fruity, creamy tomato sauce? Paolo Rota prepares it himself tonight – not in the Alps (they’re still on their summer break), but in Brusaporto. A guest, equipped with a bib to guard against sauce splashes, indulges with delight. The verdict? It’s worth embracing both versions of Da Vittorio – as often as possible.
Below: Stylish tableware plays an important role in the Da Vittorio restaurants.
‘There are differences between the two restaurants,’ he explains. ‘In Brusaporto, we have over 30 chefs. In St. Moritz, just seven.’ Before anyone sets foot in the mountain kitchen, they must pass through the rigorous Cerea school – and meet Rota’s own standards. ‘I personally choose who joins me for the St. Moritz season,’ he says.
Running a seasonal fine dining restaurant is no small feat. ‘It’s certainly a challenge,’ Rota admits, ‘but a delicious one.’ The tempo in the kitchen is intense – starting on 12 December 2025 and finishing on 22 March 2026 – with packed serving from Wednesday to Sunday each week. But with that intensity comes creativity: ‘It’s exciting to craft a new menu every year.’
Still, the challenge lies in capturing the Da Vittorio spirit without simply replicating Brusaporto’s three-star experience. Rota’s goal is for guests to feel at home – while still enjoying fresh surprises.
Guests love Da Vittorio’s elegant seafood, from refined potato torte with Beluga caviar to Saint-Pierre with oyster mayonnaise. And then there’s the perfect mountain to sea fusion: turbot roasted in hay. The upcoming winter season also marks a new era, with the dining room redesigned by Ticino interior designer Carlo Rampazzi to match the refined, expressive style of the kitchen.
Da Vittorio St. Moritz 2 Michelin stars
18 Gault&Millau points A seasonal jewel of Italian fine dining in the Swiss Alps, Da Vittorio St. Moritz is the alpine outpost of the legendary three-Michelin-starred Da Vittorio near Bergamo. Brought to life by the renowned Cerea brothers and helmed locally by Chef Paolo Rota, the restaurant opened in 2012 at the Carlton Hotel St. Moritz. Within just two years, it earned its first Michelin star, followed by a second in 2020. Outstanding Italian cuisine, right in the heart of St. Moritz – the Cerea family brings the essence of Lombardy to the mountains with a level of excellence that speaks for itself. Best experienced first-hand. The refined dining room was originally designed – and redesigned in summer 2025 – by renowned interior architect Carlo Rampazzi, whose signature style graces all member hotels of the Tschuggen Collection. Open each winter season, Da Vittorio St. Moritz blends culinary tradition with alpine elegance, offering iconic dishes like Paccheri alla Vittorio and inventive seasonal creations.
Words Wolfgang Fassbender
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