Sunny Skies Ahead

An indoor pool with ­chandelier lighting? Yes, 
your majesty!

It’s one thing typing in ‘Paradiso’ to your car’s navigation system while still fighting the traffic in cold, rainy Zurich, but arriving two hours later and agreeing wholeheartedly with whoever named this piece of lakeside bliss on the shores of Lake Lugano is another thing entirely. Every Swiss person’s favourite magic trick has not failed to please – the magic portal being the San Gottardo tunnel without traffic, and the thrilled audience being myself, and my good friend Elise from (even rainier) Paris.

I promised her a little slice of Italianità, with a Swiss twist, and she’s already been rendered speechless by the huge, spacious room we’ve been offered for our quick spa getaway. Our unobstructed view of the deep, dark green waters of Lake Lugano couldn’t be prettier, and the room’s classically elegant décor makes us suddenly wish we’d packed a ballgown or two to match the gold leaf, velvet and satin in rich jewel tones that can be found throughout the historic hotel. And it is precisely this lush, unapologetic old-world flair that makes the Splendide so magical.

A lovely ­urban hideaway with plenty of natural touches.

Not in ballgowns, but instead in plush hotel bathrobes, Elise and I make our way over to the Splendide Lifestyle Spa. Opened in 2019, this luxurious haven marks a sharp departure from the pizzazz of the main building, offering a clean and modern take on modern wellness. Admittedly, the spa area itself is not huge, but it’s incredibly well thought out, with an inviting indoor pool that is especially tempting in the early evening hours. Laid out on two floors with lots of glass, greenery and light, the Splendide’s spa invites both hotel guests and members to relax and recharge. The spa team greets us with a smile, a hot cup of ginger tea and two serene treatment rooms already set up for 90 minutes of pure pampering. As a beauty editor, I’ve had the pleasure of experiencing Biologique Recherche treatments before, and was looking forward to a facial filled with the ultra-high-performing cleansing rituals and vitamin-enriched exfoliants in the way someone else might go waterskiing or skydiving – braced for some serious action. To my surprise (and to my skin’s utter delight), therapist Federica took one look at my slightly reddened skin and set about treating it with a calming, visibly lifting ritual that left me feeling deeply relaxed and with a wonderful glow.

Airy, bright and modern: the new spa reception area.

Later, upon joining my chic Paris friend for an amazing three-course dinner at the La Veranda restaurant with a lakeside view (and an amazing wine list!), I couldn’t help noticing how we were both able to stem our often manic flow of conversation and just melt into our comfy chairs, sipping an after-dinner espresso and simply enjoying the beautiful landscape and lake right in front of us. Unfortunately, our stay was so short that we only had time for a quick morning walk along the Lugano promenade the next morning. But the good news was that we had got up early enough to enjoy the wonderful hotel breakfast with some of the best pancakes ever. A Ticino speciality? I’m guessing not (though there’s certainly no shortage of those!) But the warmth and professionalism of all of the Splendide’s staff ensured that we headed back north feeling we’d just experienced a little slice of dolce vita – with a luxurious Swiss touch. Which is honestly the best way to describe both the magic of Ticino itself, and the Splendide Royal’s wonderfully elegant take on hospitality.