Fine wining
When the best chefs, restaurateurs and sommeliers in the country rave about a place, it can only mean one thing: that everything – from the food, service and wine to the view and the vibes – is just right there.
Above: After honing his craft as a sommelier under the guidance of culinary icon Andreas Caminada at the three-star Schloss Schauenstein, Oliver Friedrich is now shaping his own path at Alter Torkel, blending precision, passion, and a distinctive vision of hospitality.
Even the journey to get there is impressive – past a sea of vines in the great little wine region that is the Bünder Herrschaft. In the 17th century, the winegrowers of Jenins built a communal winery with a beam press. Over time it became a tavern, which underwent a bold conversion in 2016. The new building stands out strikingly today and is an icon in the breathtakingly beautiful landscape. Inside, the imposing old beam press still stands and the cosy dining room radiates comforting charm with its antique wood and vintage furniture.
The outdoor seating is also uniquely tempting – be it on the terrace under awnings, in the romantic pergola or on the rustic wooden benches directly next to the vines in the vineyard. You want to sit there endlessly and enjoy the light and airy atmosphere.
Nestled among the vineyards, Alter Torkel boasts an unrivalled location.
‘We call it fine wining,’ explains leaseholder Oliver Friedrich. ‘The menu is developed based on the wines. This means that guests can first choose a flavour from the 21 wines that we select and serve by the glass, and then what our head chef David Esser recommends to go with them.’
The dishes are contemporary, meticulously cooked, seasonal, regional and above all extremely tasty! Highlights include beef tartare with kimchi, beetroot with Roquefort and spruce, lobster in a brioche sandwich, braised beef ravioli and pork ribs with smoked rösti. ‘We take our idea to the extreme with our wine-tasting menu. The guest chooses between one and six glasses of our current favourite wines and we serve the matching dishes.’
Awarded 14 Gaul&Millau points, the restaurant is celebrated for its elegant harmony of fine wines and exquisitely crafted dishes.
Julia and Oliver Friedrich have been running the Alter Torkel since 2020. The atmosphere is warm, welcoming and extremely relaxed. ‘We are two people who are crazy about wine and we’re living our dream here,’ they admit. Or, as their guests perceive them: two wine lovers! They got to know each other in the restaurant industry. She studied hotel management and was a young restaurateur; he was Gault&Millau Sommelier of the Year 2013 at Schloss Schauenstein by Andreas Caminada.
Their events, such as the Night of the Somms, the Big Summer Party and the Indian Summer Party, are also legendary. So that guests can enjoy their time here to the full, the Alter Torkel also offers ‘care-free’ all-inclusive packages – with a shuttle service to the train station or the partner hotels Hirschen, Rössli and the Swiss Deluxe Hotel Grand Resort Bad Ragaz.
Words Claudio Del Principe
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