Savouring the best - A grand wine lovers’ tour

Tradition since 1844: the Hotel Baur au Lac, which has its own wine shop, is just a stone’s throw from Lake Zurich.

Especially when you are a guest at the Baur au Lac hotel in Zurich and have arranged to meet Marc Almert for a morning chat. Awarded the title of the World’s Best Sommelier in 2019, he has been the Managing Director of Baur au Lac Vins since January, knows the hotel, the city and the region inside out after eight years with the traditional hotel and is happy to share his knowledge. ‘At Baur’s, the brasserie, you should definitely try the Wiener Schnitzel and the Zürcher Geschnetzeltes with rösti, and at Marguita, you should try the sea bass in a salt dough and king crab rossini,’ he says.

Now all he needs to do is tell us the right drinks to go with this delicious food. ‘The wine list at Marguita is Mediterranean-influenced, so a rosé with the rossini is an obvious choice. Matured champagne with a certain creaminess also goes perfectly with this opulent dish,’ explains Almert. His perfect match for the sea bass is an insider tip from the southern Burgundy region: Les Longues Terres from Domaine Couturier. ‘The old vines give this wine, which has impressive balance and minerality on the nose and palate, the strength to hold its own with the sea bass, while the invigorating acidity complements the salty flavours.’ The expert recommends Grüner Veltliner from a single vineyard to go with the schnitzel and a local Pinot Noir, for example from Erich Meier in Uetikon on Lake Zurich, to go with the Geschnetzeltes. ‘If you come to Switzerland, you have to try the Pinots. They are hard to find abroad, because we know how good they are here.’

With 18 Gault&Millau points and two Michelin stars, Patrick Mahler of Focus Atelier stands at the forefront of Central Switzerland’s culinary scene. His inventive yet precise cuisine has earned him a reputation as one of the region’s most exceptional talents.

And where does Marc Almert like to go when he leaves the hotel walls? ‘Kronenhalle is a classic. The service there still does a lot at the table with the guests, which I really like. However, I also love Lotti at Werdmühleplatz, not least because of the fantastic selection of mature Swiss wines,’ he replies. Other favourites on his list include the casual, modern Silex, whose Head Chef George Tomlin used to work at the Clove Club in London, and Lumière with its classic French cuisine and beautiful summer terrace. If Almert fancies a fine dining experience, he eats at Stefan Heilemann’s Widder Restaurant (‘You won’t find a better combination of European haute cuisine and Thai flavours anywhere’) or at Heiko Nieder’s The Restaurant in the Dolder Grand high above the city (‘Always an exciting experience’).

Plates that are so beautiful that you forget the marvellous view

The view of Lake Lucerne and the mountains from the Park Hotel Vitznau is almost surreal. Despite this, time and again guests can be observed here just staring mesmerised at their plates. This is particularly the case in the Focus Atelier, with its two Michelin stars and 18 Gault&Millau points, where Patrick Mahler provides an almost poetic style of cuisine that combines culinary innovation, harmonious flavours and sophisticated aesthetics.

A tribute to culinary legends: the Brasserie Ritzcoffier, named in honour of César Ritz and Auguste Escoffier, pays homage to the golden age of gastronomy, reviving the timeless art of classic cuisine with contemporary finesse.

A restaurant garden with  600 different plants

Rising majestically behind Vitznau is the Rigi, the king of the mountains in the Central Swiss Alps. Although the peak of the massif is only 1797 metres above sea level, it offers a unique panoramic view that enchanted both Goethe and Tolstoy. The Rigi is also worth a culinary excursion. The Regina Montium restaurant in the Kräuterhotel Edelweiss celebrates natural cuisine reflecting the Michelin star it has been awarded and has a garden with over 600 different plants. Head Chef Benedikt Voss utilises these in combination with fish and meat from the region. ‘My dishes reflect the diversity of nature, are shaped by its beauty in form and colour, and are inspired by the landscape of Mount Rigi,’ he explains.

If you don’t get on the Rigi Railway in Vitznau, but instead board the Motorschiff Bürgenstock Katamaran, the half-hour journey takes you to the valley station of the Bürgenstock Funicular on the opposite shore of the lake. Switzerland’s first electric funicular railway, which made its maiden voyage in 1888, takes passengers from 434 to 874 metres above sea level in six in 6 minutes. The Bürgenstock Resort has its own access to the railway and has been attracting guests from all over the world for over 150 years, not least because of the breathtaking view. Its most famous visitors include Audrey Hepburn, Sophia Loren, Charlie Chaplin and Sean Connery. The centrepiece of the new part of the resort, which opened in 2017, is the 10,000 m² Alpine Spa with five pools and various saunas. In the infinity pool, you feel as if you could swim out into the sky, while the Hollywood Pool was one of the locations the film crew used to hang out at while shooting the classic James Bond film Goldfinger in the sixties.

Repurposed ingredients, a master chef, and a living tennis legend

In Gstaad, The Alpina Gstaad showcases how luxury and sustainability can seamlessly go together. Executive Chef Martin Göschel continually seeks innovative ways to implement his low-waste philosophy deliciously. Wilted lettuce becomes pesto, and stale bread is transformed into pasta. In his namesake gourmet restaurant, all proteins are sourced from Switzerland, with quail from Gstaad and shrimp from the Lake Constance region. Göschel frequently updates his menu based on seasonality and availability from his closest producers, ensuring guests experience something new with each visit. Additionally, the hotel has its own bees, whose honey is a key ­ingredient in Göschel’s ­cuisine. His nature-inspired culinary creations have earned a Michelin star and 18 Gault&Millau points.

The terrace to end all terraces: perched at the historic Palace Hotel within the Bürgenstock Resort, this iconic spot offers guests sweeping, unforgettable views over Lake Lucerne – where nature and elegance meet in perfect harmony.

Next door, in the vibrant Megu (16 points), Head Chef and sushi master Tsutomu Kugota takes guests to Japan. Signature dishes include crispy fried green asparagus with roasted rice crackers and lemon, and silver cod with miso. The inspiring menu is complemented by one of Switzerland’s largest sake collections and an exquisite selection of Japanese whiskies. The newest addition to The Alpina Gstaad is Monti. The restaurant focuses on sharing-style dining and chef Martin Göschel offers a selection of convivial, vibrant dishes. Just weeks after its opening, the restaurant was awarded 15 Gault&Millau points.

In the village’s fairytale castle, the Gstaad Palace, there are two kings in ­addition to the guests: hotelier Andrea Scherz, who runs the hotel in an ­extremely friendly manner, and Executive Chef Franz Faeh. Faeh, a native of Gstaad, has mastered almost every ­culinary style. His Thai dishes are particularly delicious, for example the spicy papaya salad with scampi and a tom kha foam. And it comes as no surprise, as the king of chefs in Gstaad has also cooked for the royal family in Thailand. The flair of the Palace is unbeatable. The house is packed full of history, was used as a hiding place for some of Switzerland’s gold reserves during the Second World War and was the backdrop for one of the Pink Panther films in 1975. Owner and Director Andrea Scherz, a young boy at the time, was allowed to sit on Peter Sellers’ shoulders during filming.

When it’s hot outside, hotel guests and locals are drawn to the PISCINE, the outdoor pool at the Gstaad Palace. It has been bringing a touch of the Côte d’Azur to the Saanenland region since 1928.

Padel with a view: The Grand Bellevue is setting a new standard for Alpine wellness by introducing padel – a fast-paced, sociable sport that’s gaining popularity worldwide – to the refined setting of Gstaad. Nestled amidst snow-capped peaks and lush mountain landscapes, the hotel’s custom-built padel court offers guests a unique way to stay active while immersed in nature. Whether you’re a dedicated athlete or simply looking to try something new, the court is ideal for both play and relaxation — seamlessly blending sport, leisure, and luxury in one of Switzerland’s most elegant resorts.

The sporting highlight in Gstaad's annual calendar is the EFG Swiss Open Gstaad, which is held in the Roy Emerson Arena, an arena full of atmosphere and magic with four steep spectator stands that are rebuilt every year. In 2025, the Wimbledon of the Alps celebrates its 110th anniversary. No other tournaments in Switzerland have as much tradition and are traditionally played on clay, which promises spectacular, long rallies. Tennis legend Emerson – who won twelve majors as well as winning five times in Gstaad – continues to take his place among the 4,500 spectators and spends at least seven weeks every year at the Palace, where he shares his vast knowledge with tennis enthusiasts as part of his legendary camp.

There are two brand new padel courts in the gardens of the Hotel Le Grand Bellevue, where anyone interested in this spectacular trendy sport can try it out for themselves or enjoy a session with a professional padel coach. Head Chef Francesco De Bartolomeis serves the best pasta far and wide at the 16-point restaurant Leonard’s, including Cappelletti with turkey, Raviolone alla Parmigiana, and Bottoni with cream cheese, hazelnut butter and sage. The restaurant is reminiscent of the restaurant in Wes Anderson’s Grand Budapest Hotel, much like the entire building in fact. There is even a 20-seat cinema that can be hired for private film screenings.

Bad Ragaz: SIX Michelin stars, 76 Gault&Millau points and a wine paradise on the doorstep

The Grand Resort Bad Ragaz is the number one foodie destination between Zurich, Chur and St. Gallen – and the hotel with the most Michelin stars (six), a green Michelin star for sustainability and Gault&Millau points (76) in all of Europe. Sven Wassmer Memories (three Michelin stars, one green Michelin star for sustainability and 18 Gault&Millau points), where the chef serves pared-down Swiss Alpine cuisine that is close to perfection, is world class. A dish that is emblematic of Wassmer’s philosophy is the smoked char with burnt cream and fir oil. Wassmer’s wife Amanda, a profound wine connoisseur and virtuoso of non-alcoholic pairings, takes care of the drinks. The best seats in Sven Wassmer Memories are at the bar, which has a view of the open kitchen, as does the entire restaurant. Fans of bold, modern sharing dishes will love Joël Ellenberger at IGNIV by Andreas Caminada (two Michelin stars and 17 Gault&Millau points: see chef’s profile on page 78), while purists who want light, uncomplicated yet top-quality food will love Verve by Sven (one Michelin star and 15 Gault&Millau points).

Local flavours: from barley soup to veal liver, the Zollstube  offers everything that defines Switzerland’s culinary heritage.

Executive Chef Nadine ­Wächter-Moreno oversees the Swiss Zollstube (88 Falstaff points), the Thai Namun and the Italian Olives d’Or (altogether 26 Gault&Millau points), apart from banqueting and room service. After spending almost 20 years in the US and Asia, she is delighted that home-style Swiss cooking is once again part of the menu she offers. ‘Dishes such as Grisons barley soup, sliced veal liver and apple pie with custard mean home to me,’ she says.

And where better to enjoy these specialities than in the Zollstube, which dates back to the 18th century and features a tiled stove and atmospheric panelling? As a Lucerne native, it was a matter of honour for Nadine Wächter-Moreno to put Luzerner Chügelipastete – sausage meat balls served with a cream sauce in a puff pastry pie – on the menu, refined with slightly tart pieces of apple. ‘When something is straightforward and carefully prepared, guests enjoy it,’ emphasises the Grand Resort Bad Ragaz culinary mastermind.

‘We are already in a fantastic position when it comes to fine dining. I ate at Sven Wassmer’s restaurant and was massively impressed, and Joël Ellenberger always holds out spoons of food for me to try when I visit him in the kitchen. He’s a huge talent!’