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Shimmering bubbles from Franciacorta

If you mention the words ‘Italy’ and ‘sparkling wine’ to people, the first thing they will probably think of is Prosecco. It is uncomplicated, fruity and relatively easy to produce. The second fermentation stage, which is responsible for the bubbles, takes place in large pressurised tanks. The traditional method of sparkling wine production, known as bottle fermentation, is far more complex – and is how Franciacorta is produced. The wines from the Lombardy region are Italy’s answer to the world’s great sparkling wines.

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‘Borlotti’ from Claudio Del Principe’s vegetable cookbook ‘all’orto’, AT Verlag

The sparkling bubbles remain an insider tip. However, the best Franciacorta sparkling wines can easily compete with good champagnes. Over 120 wineries operate in the region, which was recently named ‘International Wine Region of the Year 2024’ at the Wine Star Awards organised by US magazine Wine Enthusiast. Like the famous French region, these rely mainly on the two high-quality grape varieties Chardonnay and Pinot noir. Pinot blanc and the indigenous Erbamat grape are also permitted to grow. Franciacorta is produced in different styles and flavours. The most common is the non-vintage Franciacorta Brut. The dosage may contain up to 12 grams of residual sugar per litre. Brut Nature is completely dry. There are also some sweet versions.

Franciacorta Reserves are particularly high-quality vintage wines that must be aged on the lees for at least 60 months. At least 85% of the vintage Franciacorta must come from one vintage. The wines must be allowed to mature on the lees for a minimum of 30 months.

Rosés are popular, but these must contain at least 35% Pinot noir. Chardonnay must contain a maximum of 65% of this grape variety, with Pinot Blanc requiring 50% and Erbamat 10%. A speciality in Franciacorta is the Satèn. The main feature is the lower bottle pressure of below 5 bar. This results in a soft, even silky flavour, as the name of the wine suggests. Only white grapes are permitted to be used for this.

We have selected six different Franciacorta sparkling wines from the variety of wines offered by the region.

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Elegant

Franciacorta Extra Brut

Golf 1927, Barone Pizzini The finely sparkling organic sparkling wine knows how to impress with its fruity and subtly yeasty bouquet. Other characteristics: dry, straightforward, slender, fresh, juicy, elegant, slightly tart. It is produced from 100% Chardonnay and is matured on the lees for around 30 months. CH 37 | smithandsmith.ch

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Complex

Franciacorta DOSAGE ZERO DOCG/b ­Vintage Collection 2020, Ca’del Bosco

Ca’del Bosco is one of the leading producers in Franciacorta. And rightly so, as this complex, mineralised vintage sparkling wine shows. It is made from no fewer than 20 base wines, from Chardonnay, supplemented by Pinot nero and Pinot bianco. It is first aged in barriques, followed by 36 months on the lees. It features a fine perlage and a complex aroma. CH 59 | caratello.ch

Matured

Franciacorta Zerozerosette+9
2016, La Fiorita

The bone-dry sparkling wine has reached its first maturity. This is particularly evident in the multi-layered bouquet. On the palate, the Francia-corta is medium-bodied with fresh notes thanks to the present acidity while also being complex and relatively long-lasting. Chardonnay and Pi-not nero form the basis of the wine, which is only produced in the best years. CH 48 | terravigna.ch

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Pale pink

Franciacorta Rosé Ardea

Pacifica 2020, Centinari Chardonnay and Pinot noir provide the basis for this sparkling rosé. It knows how to please from the very first sip. It is pale pink in colour, while the nose is characterised by red berries and spicy notes. It has a very fine perlage. A beautiful freshness, creaminess, minerality and good length are noticeable on the palate. It is aged on the lees for 42 months. CH 42.50 | vinterra.ch

Silky

Franciacorta Satèn Brut

2020, Ricci Curbastro Velvety and silky – these are the most striking characteristics of this sparkling wine that is rich in finesse and made exclusively from Chardonnay. The nose reveals a fine fruity aroma with apple, citrus and brioche notes. It has a good aromatic length and is aged for four years on the lees. CH 35 | moevenpick-wein.com

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Full of life

Franciacorta Rosé Brut 2020, Castello Bonomi

The sparkling wine is characterised by an intense salmon pink colour and a lively, fine perlage. The nose is characterised by fruity notes such as red berries. The palate is dry, fresh, medium-bodied, elegant and ends with a lovely length. It is made solely from Pinot noir grapes and matured on the lees for 30 months. CH 39 | bauraulacvins.ch

Words Peter Keller

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