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Three times lucky - In Geneva

Geneva is jewel of a city. It acts as a magnet for diplomats, auction house insiders, watch industry professionals, and tourists who enjoy combining their holidays with world-class shopping. Then there are the pleasure-seekers – open-minded explorers ready to immerse themselves in Geneva’s vibrant bar scene and the liquid delights on both sides of the Rhône. Like many German-speaking Swiss, I must admit, I know Paris, Milan, London – and even Bangkok – better than I know Geneva. That’s about to change. Our cocktail tour begins in style at the magnificent Hotel des Bergues, a landmark in a prime lakeside location. As the city’s very first hotel, it has stood the test of time and has been part of the Four Seasons family since its grand reopening in 2003. Most importantly for us, it’s home to an exquisite bar and the perfect starting point for our evening.

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01 Naked & Famous

Swiss Deluxe Hotels Magazine Summer 2025 U8655456844 A Watercolor Illustration Of An Elegant Cocktail 4Ef63d30 Ecfe 44B2 92E8 Cbb0dd5e3446 1

BLACK SHEEP COCKTAIL BAR

After a quick sightseeing trip and before visiting the Bar des Bergues in our hotel, we make an impromptu stop at The Black Sheep – the kind of bar every major city has, tucked just off the main streets, run by young bartenders brimming with creativity. It’s a place where ideas flow as freely as the spirits, and the regulars are as much a part of the charm as the drinks. Here, a relaxed crowd of all ages gathers for post-work apéritifs, the music is an eclectic mix, and the staff wear tattoos like a uniform of self-expression.  The vibe? Somewhere between a stylish rock bar and a tiki-inspired hideaway. We order on instinct, and it pays off: beautifully balanced, inventive cocktails arrive in frosted bowls with artful garnishes and flavours that surprise and delight without trying too hard. I go for a Naked & Famous — a bold mix of mezcal, yellow Chartreuse, Aperol and lime. The first sip is electric: smoky, sweet-sour, and dangerously smooth. Mezcal, once a niche spirit, has been making its way into cocktail menus worldwide, thanks to a growing range of small-batch, high-quality producers (for those curious, BEÚ Spirits in Zurich offers a superb selection for both newcomers and seasoned aficionados). It’s the kind of drink that feels like 
a beginning, the kind that lingers, in the 
best way. Rue des Etuves 11 | blacksheepgeneva.com 

02 Cocktail des Bergues 1924

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Le Bar des Bergues, Four Seasons 

Hotel des Bergues Geneva Back at the hotel, we’re welcomed by Nicolas Parlanti, a barman who brings both presence and poise to the room. A Marseillais by origin and former Thai boxer by passion, he embodies ­old-school charm – precise, self-assured, and quietly magnetic. You trust him instinctively, so when he recommends his signature Cocktail 
des Bergues 1924, we don’t hesitate. As he expertly mixes Lillet Blanc, Xeres Sherry, and Punt e Mes, Parlanti explains that every new bar menu at Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues draws inspiration from the hotel’s past. In this case, a stroke of luck: the rediscovery of a 1924 cocktail book by former head bartender Carlo Beltramo, one of his predecessors. The resulting drink is gently sweet and layered rather strong, and a evocative tribute to a bygone era. We’re beginning to get hungry, and it's fortunate detail that the menu of the bar is created by the Hotel's Michelin-starred Chef, Michele Fortunato, allowing us to sample some of his signature dishes. As we order truffle tagliolini and a classic club sandwich, there’s still time for another round. I opt for a cocktail infused with palo santo — a bold, aromatic showpiece served in a tin cup crowned with burning wood. Its fragrance soon draws curious glances from nearby guests. Over dinner, Nicolas offers a few more of his creations, including a remarkable non-alcoholic option. Each is surprisingly light, nuanced, balanced, and proof that even the most complex cocktails can feel effortless in the right hands. The only challenge now? Saying goodbye. One more bar awaits. Quai des Bergues 33 | fourseasons.com 

03 Bloody Mary Thaï

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SATU BAR

So, where to go for a nightcap? When you’re in the company of someone like Nicolas Parlanti, there’s only one smart move: ask the expert. In the world of fine bartending, camaraderie runs deep and recommendations are shared generously, not guarded. Nicolas doesn’t hesitate. ‘Satu,’ he says. ‘You’ll like it.’ Tucked away near the Cimetière des Rois, about a 20-minute walk from Bar des Bergues, Satu is everything its setting suggests: discreet, atmospheric, and completely different in style. Bathed in red-orange light, the compact space feels like a speakeasy from another world — sultry, modern, a little surreal. Even reading the menu is a challenge in the low light. But what we can make out is intriguing: a Negroni with Thai basil, something called Siam Opium made with agave syrup and Kaffir mezcal, and ‘BKK City’, a blend of Midori, coriander, coconut water, and vegan egg white. The bartender — tattooed, graceful, and effortlessly efficient — accepts our order with a silent nod. Moments later, he sets down a transparent Bloody Mary in front of me. Transparent, yes! I have no idea how it’s made, but I’m captivated and, more importantly, it tastes fantastic. We linger in the moment, tempted to order another round. The menu also reveals a food offering that surprises us with its ambition: Kung Pao tiger prawns, Chinatown duck, Seua Rong Hai with Parisian entrecôte. We make a mental note to return and for now, settle for whatever the minibar back at the hotel might offer to tide us over. Geneva, it turns out, doesn’t just pour well. It knows how to surprise, too. Chemin du 23-Août 8 | satubar.ch

Words Oliver Schmuki

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