Three Times Lucky
Finding inspiration and joy in being a tourist in his own city, our columnist explores three great bars in Zurich – all of them with an emphasis on not only spectacular flavours and top-notch ingredients, but also on design and hospitality.
Every great drink starts with a recipe – but like a well-told story, cocktails evolve over time. They’re tweaked, reinvented and deconstructed by bartenders and enthusiasts alike. A great drink can be both a destination and a launchpad for new creativity. No two ever taste quite the same – mood, setting, company and the bartender all play their part.
That’s why, while I enjoy discovering new spots, I often return to bars I know and love. There’s comfort in the familiar but always room for surprise, making them the perfect backdrop for bold choices and risky orders.
Which brings us to the Widder Hotel, located in one of the oldest corners of Zurich. Though right in the city centre, it remains a refined refuge of privacy, flavour and finesse. Spread across nine historic buildings, it holds centuries of stories – fuel for the fearlessly creative Widder Bar team. But let’s not get ahead of ourselves.
01 - Italian Job
Why did we pick this place to start? For one, Dirk Hany, founder of this award-winning bar, once ran the legendary Widder Bar – which we’ll be visiting later tonight. You see, there is a method to the high-proof madness that is about to begin. The focus here is on bespoke drinks, including a three-course cocktail tasting menu created with Hublot.
The Swiss luxury watchmaker’s motto – The Art of Fusion – seems to have unleashed creativity behind the bar. But instead of a Rigi Martini (advertised as adventurous enough to make you yodel) I go for a drink from the seasonal menu called Italian Job. It’s built around the flavours of a Caprese salad. The clear liquid arrives in a tiny bottle, with a crispy tomato chip perched playfully on the rim.
Our waitress disappears before I can ask how to drink it. Left to improvise, I take a bite and a sip, then toss the wafer into the glass. The drink turns out to be a bit too potent and lacks the layered depth I hoped for. Undeterred, I reach over to try my companion’s Oolong Gimlet with gin and sake – a more intriguing balance.
Leaning back, I close my eyes briefly and soak in the sun. The weekend has officially begun and this is just the first tab of the evening. We settle the bill, hail a cab and resist the pull of the Widder Bar – just for now – as we head to another Zurich icon.
Bar am Wasser
Stadthausquai 1
baramwasser.ch
02 - Black Currant v_2
Confession: I’ve adored this elegant hideaway since it opened in September 2024. Designed by Küchel Architects, it feels like a luxurious cave – dim lighting, textured stone, curved wood walls and an impressive cocktail menu.
Elevated comfort food like Croque Monsieur or veal curry sausage rounds out the offerings. On an orange couch, a lively group laughs over drinks; nearby, couples relax. The mood is light and festive. Often, Markus Granelli, The Dolder Grand’s charming general manager, can be spotted here, sipping tea and observing the scene. We settle at the brass bar.
I eye the Canvashara (Cuban rum, curaçao, honey, lime – what’s not to love?), but a special eau de vie menu steals my attention. A Parisian bar team is in residence for the Epicure festival, hosted each September by two-star chef Heiko Nieder.
Our timing is impeccable. I choose the Black Currant_v2 – a ruby-red cocktail with cassis and Ruinart Blanc de Blancs. It’s bright, bold and utterly indulgent. My companion opts for a classic Dolder Negroni – flawlessly executed. As we sip, we agree – we could stay all evening. But the Widder awaits.
Canvas Bar & Lounge at The Dolder Grand Hotel
Kurhausstrasse 65
thedoldergrand.com/canvas-bar-lounge
03 - Harry Styles
The staff at the Widder Hotel welcome us with warm smiles, as if we were family. We’re led to the Widder Restaurant, where Stefan Heilemann crafts culinary wonders – his textures, aromas and flavour pairings seem to satisfy every cell in my body. I’ve dined here before and his precision never fails to impress and amaze me.
Heilemann himself escorts us to the chef’s table by the open kitchen. For three mesmerising hours, we watch the team prepare dish after dish with near-silent coordination. It’s a lesson in quiet mastery and culinary artistry. The cuisine is both daring and refined. Highlights include Algarve sardines with beef tartare and a Tom Yam langoustine with oxheart tomatoes and kaffir lime – bold contrasts, premium ingredients and playful textures. It’s as refined as a top-tier cocktail.
After dinner, we navigate the hotel’s labyrinthine halls to the Widder Bar. Though the night is well underway, the bar buzzes with music and energy. In the spirit of fun, I give our bartender three prompts: velvet, weekend and Harry Styles. He returns with a tulip-shaped glass holding a golden, green-tinted cocktail, topped with frothy egg white and five drops of olive oil. Inspired by the song Watermelon Sugar, it’s fruity, fresh and light.
My companion’s tequila-based long drink is just as seductive – bitter, citrusy and dangerously easy to sip. As the pianist plays on, we say our goodbyes and make our way to the final stop of the night – our suite atop the Widder Hotel.
Widder Bar
Widdergasse 6
widderhotel.com/de/restaurants/widder-bar
Words Oliver Schmuki
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