Zurich: ancient charm and modern flair with stunning lake views

The Widder Hotel is a fascinating amalgamation of townhouses from the 15th century spread across nine medieval buildings in the centre of Zurich’s old town. These structures have been skilfully combined to create space for 48 distinctive rooms and one exceptional Penthouse Suite.

With its riveting mix of trendy venues and innovative world-class restaurants, Switzerland’s gastronomic capital has firmly established itself on the map of culinary destinations for well-travelled gourmets and lovers of sundry cuisine.

Transformed into an exclusive Krug pop-up bar for a second year running, the terrace of the Dolder Grand is arguably one of the best vantage points to admire the awe-inspiring panoramic vistas over Zurich. The perfect place to catch up with Lisa Bader, Head Sommelier at the Dolder and GaultMillau Sommelier of the Year 2021.

Zurich is the largest Swiss city – with vineyards. At the beginning of the 20th century, there were 400 hectares of vineyards across what is now the city. Today there are still 14 hectares planted with all kinds of varieties. Of course, there used to be many more.

Combining tradition and modernity is one of Laurent Eperon’s great strengths, and perhaps a clue to why his take on Sauce Normande served with cod reveals a much more delicate blend of flavours than in simpler, home-style cuisine.

Chef Maximilian Müller loves horseradish and Japanese knives, dreams of owning a Porsche and admires Austrian chef Eckardt Witzigmann. At home, he often treats himself to a shot or two of Maggi seasoning sauce.

A welcome refuge from Zurich’s hustle and bustle and the arctic chill voutside, I didn’t exactly expect a female DJ when I first checked into the cool, calm and collected La Réserve Eden Au Lac. No big logos or signs announce the imaginary yacht club entirely designed by Philippe Starck. In the designer’s own words, ‘This hotel is like rock ‘n’ rolling with the Queen of England; everything is traditional yet resolutely unconventional.’ I was immediately intrigued to find out more.